b'So, while we chase such technological solutions, with climate change pushing us into an all of the above mode, lets also remember that weve been down this road before. With margarine. I mean, fake butter. 4Prompting local food and organics foremother Joan Gussow to reflect: I prefer butter to margarine, because I trust cows more than I trust chemists. Invent technology that replaces the cow? OK, if we must. But theres also another waythe way leading to healthier, more balanced relation-ships with cow, grass, soil, sun. . .and one another. Perhaps the only thing that is more of a red flag to a Wall Street bull than suggesting we slow some of our money down is the suggestion that he eat less often at Smith & Wollensky. If steak were a religion, this would be its cathedral, boldly states the restaurants home page. The place epitomizes old-school, unabashed, money-center, two-martini lunches and dry-aged culinary preferences of the red-blooded-expense-account kind. 5This single New York location, the flagship of a chain of nine other restaurants on three continents, served 296,723 meals last year, grossing over $25 million. Its menu features a Classic 26oz Prime Rib for $59 and a Wollenskys Burgerfor $22.4 Margarine was touted for the better part of the 20 thcentury as a less expensive alternative that was better for heart health due to substitution of unsaturated vegetable fats for saturated animal fats. The plot thickened, however, when it was discovered that the trans fats in partially hydrogenated vegetable oils were unhealthy. Annual margarine consumption peaked in 1976 at 12 pounds per capita and has dropped to under four pounds today. Annual butter consumption in the U.S. was 18 pounds per capita in the early 20 thcentury and is under six pounds today. 5 From Smith & Wollenskys website: Each year, the Oracle of Omaha Warren Buffett lunches with winning bidders of a charity luncheon auction to benefit the Glide Foundation in San Francisco. The winning bidder brings seven guests to dine with the legendary investor at Smith & Wollensky New York City. The Auction is in its 16th year and has raised over $25 million. The New York Times calls the restaurant a steakhouse to end all arguments. 124'